You can boost your parts’ durability by tuning temperatures, cooling, print speed, and infill for PLA+ and Pro PLA; PLA+ and Pro PLA provide higher strength and better layer adhesion, but excessive nozzle temperatures, poor ventilation, or insufficient cooling can cause deformation or harmful fumes. Calibrate extrusion and retraction, optimize bed adhesion, and you’ll achieve consistently stronger prints.
Key Takeaways:
- Set higher extrusion and bed temperatures within manufacturer specs for PLA+ and Pro PLA to improve layer adhesion and reduce delamination.
- Balance slower print speeds with adequate part cooling-reduce cooling for thicker layers to boost interlayer fusion, increase for small details and overhangs.
- Use larger nozzle sizes and taller layer heights to increase melt contact area for stronger bonds, while tuning retraction to prevent stringing.
- Increase wall/perimeter count and use higher infill or stronger infill patterns; orient parts so load-bearing layers align with layer lines for best strength.
- Dry filament before printing, store spools sealed with desiccant, and consider controlled annealing to further increase part toughness and heat resistance.
Understanding PLA and PLA+
What is PLA?
Derived from renewable resources like corn starch or sugarcane, polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable thermoplastic polyester commonly used in FFF/FDM printing. Typical glass transition sits around 55-65°C and printing temperatures usually range from 180-220°C; density is about 1.24 g/cm³ and tensile strength is often in the 50-70 MPa range. When you choose PLA you get low-warp prints, minimal odor, and consistent dimensional stability for decorative parts, prototypes, and many mechanical components that won’t see high heat or heavy impact.
Because PLA is relatively stiff and can be brittle, you’ll notice poor impact resistance and low heat deflection (~50-60°C) on functional parts unless you anneal or redesign them for load distribution. You can mitigate layer separation by printing at the higher end of the recommended temperature band and reducing cooling on small layers, which improves interlayer diffusion without dramatically increasing stringing.
Advantages of PLA+ over standard PLA
PLA+ refers to PLA blends with added impact modifiers, plasticizers, or copolymers that boost toughness and interlayer adhesion. Many PLA+ formulations print between 200-235°C with a recommended bed temperature of 45-70°C; manufacturers often quote impact-strength gains of 20-80% versus standard PLA depending on the additive package. For you, that translates into parts that can survive drops and functional testing that would fracture standard PLA.
Mechanically, PLA+ commonly increases elongation at break (from single-digit percentages into the teens or higher) and can raise heat deflection into the low- to mid-60s °C, narrowing the gap with PETG for everyday functional use. You should expect slightly different flow characteristics-many users increase extrusion multiplier by about 3-8% and allow for a small rise in nozzle temperature to ensure proper bonding without sacrificing surface finish.
Practically, you can often skip annealing for moderate-strength parts when you use PLA+, but you must heed manufacturer ranges and safety: run PLA+ at the higher end of its specified temperature window to maximize layer fusion, and ensure ventilation because some modifiers raise VOC emissions compared with plain PLA. Also be aware that certain additives can increase stringing or accelerate nozzle wear, so monitor your first-layer behavior and perform test towers to dial in extrusion, retraction, and cooling.
Print Settings for Optimal PLA+ Performance
You should push beyond standard PLA defaults: run nozzle temperatures generally between 200-230°C and bed temps of 50-70°C depending on the filament brand. Manufacturers like Prusa and eSun often recommend PLA+ toward the upper end of that range-try 210-220°C first-because the modified polymers need slightly more heat for consistent melt flow and stronger interlayer bonding.
When tuning, use controlled tests: print a 5-10 mm tensile specimen or a temperature tower with 5°C steps to quantify strength and surface quality. Watch for signs of overheating-excessive stringing, loss of fine detail, or drooping bridges-and back off temperature in 5°C increments until those symptoms clear while still maintaining good layer adhesion.
Temperature Adjustments
Start by mapping your filament: if standard PLA prints well at 190-210°C, shift PLA+ up by about 10-15°C as a baseline, then refine in 5°C steps. Increase temperature to improve bond strength and reduce under-extrusion; reduce temperature to cut stringing and preserve detail. Use part cooling at 30-100% depending on geometry-50-70% for general prints, 100% for fine bridges, and lower cooling when you need stronger layer fusion.
Temperature Adjustment Quick Reference
| Symptom / Situation | Recommended Adjustment |
| Poor layer adhesion | Raise nozzle by +5-10°C, increase bed to 60-70°C, reduce fan to 30-50% |
| Stringing or oozing | Lower nozzle by 5°C, increase retraction 0.5-1.0 mm (direct) or 2-4 mm (Bowden) |
| Loss of fine detail / blobbing | Lower nozzle 5-10°C, reduce flow by 2-4%, enable coasting/linear advance |
| Warping or edge lift | Raise bed to 60-70°C, add brim/enclosure, slow first layer speed |
| Bridging issues | Increase fan to 100%, lower nozzle 3-5°C, print bridges slower (20-30 mm/s) |
Validate adjustments with a short, representative test print and measure tensile strength or layer-peel resistance if strength is the goal; small changes of 3-5°C can move a print from fragile to robust without sacrificing too much surface finish.
Speed and Layer Height Considerations
For PLA+ prioritize moderate speeds: run outer walls at 30-40 mm/s, inner perimeters and infill between 40-70 mm/s, and travel speeds up to 150-200 mm/s. With a 0.4 mm nozzle, use layer heights from 0.12 mm (high detail) to 0.28 mm (faster, stronger). Thicker layers-around 0.18-0.28 mm-increase interlayer contact area, improving vertical strength, while smaller layers improve dimensional accuracy but can reduce throughput and sometimes bonding if temperature isn’t adjusted upward slightly.
Also tune acceleration and retraction: enable linear advance or pressure advance for better perimeter quality at higher speeds, and set retraction to ~0.6-1.2 mm for direct-drive or 3-6 mm for Bowden setups. For strength-focused parts, print with at least three perimeters, 10-12% infill overlap, and consider slowing outer walls to 20-30 mm/s to achieve a smoother, stronger skin without sacrificing internal print speed.
Modifying Print Environment
Importance of Bed Adhesion
Adjusting the build surface and first-layer parameters is where you gain the biggest returns on part strength. Set your bed to about 55-65°C for PLA+ and 60-70°C for Pro PLA, slow the first-layer speed to 15-25 mm/s, and increase first-layer extrusion width to 120-150% so the filament squishes and bonds. Fine-tune the nozzle-to-bed gap in 0.05 mm steps until a smooth, slightly flattened line results; a gap that’s too large is the most common cause of early delamination. Use a brim of 5-8 mm for small-footprint parts, add a raft only when the geometry or warping risk demands it, and prefer a clean PEI sheet or a thin PVA-glue application on glass for repeatable adhesion.
Make minor extrusion multiplier changes (+2-5%) to improve the squish without over-extruding, and validate with a 20×20 mm square test print before committing to long runs. In one shop test, adding an 8 mm brim and increasing first-layer extrusion width reduced edge lift on a 100×100 mm PLA+ panel from ~12% warpage to under 1% at the corners. Always keep within the filament manufacturer’s max temperature limits to avoid material degradation or bed surface damage.
Controlling Ambient Conditions
Eliminate drafts and stabilise ambient temperature with a simple enclosure; you’ll see better layer fusion when the ambient is around 30-40°C for PLA+ and up to 40-45°C for Pro PLA in demanding prints. Manage cooling strategically: disable part-cooling for the first 2-3 layers (0-20% fan) to aid interlayer adhesion, then ramp to 30-60% depending on small-feature cooling needs. Keep filaments dry – target storage at <10% RH and, if needed, dry spools at 45-50°C for 4-6 hours to remove moisture that otherwise causes bubbles, poor layer bonding, and brittle parts.
Use a hygrometer in your storage box and consider a filament dryer during long prints; for high-speed or tall prints, a temperature-controlled enclosure that holds 35-40°C will reduce thermal gradients without softening parts. For cooling rules of thumb, let layer times guide you: if a layer takes less than ~20-25 seconds, keep fan higher for small features, but on large layers prioritize interlayer adhesion by reducing fan until wall strength is acceptable.
Advanced Techniques for Enhancing Print Quality
When dialing in advanced settings, focus on dynamic controls: use pressure advance (0.05-0.15 in Klipper) or linear advance (K 0.02-0.12 in Marlin) to reduce blobbing at corners, and tune acceleration/jerk so your printer stops cleanly – try 500-1500 mm/s² for acceleration and 8-20 mm/s for jerk as starting ranges on typical Cartesian machines. You should also run a temperature tower for each filament batch; for PLA+ start at 200°C and step to 220°C, while many Pro PLA blends print best between 210-235°C depending on pigment and additives.
For retraction, match the hardware: set 0.8-2.0 mm at 25-40 mm/s for direct-drive extruders and 3-6 mm at 40-70 mm/s for Bowden setups, then validate with a dedicated retraction test tower to quantify stringing reduction. Slowing print speed to 30-40 mm/s for fine details, enabling 100% part cooling for small layers, and using coasting of 0.04-0.12 mm³ can reduce over-extrusion artifacts while maintaining layer adhesion.
- Print a temp tower and retraction tower for each spool to establish baseline settings.
- Enable and tune pressure/linear advance, then run a 20-40 mm/sec corner test to confirm reduced ringing.
- Adjust extrusion multiplier in 0.01 steps (1.00 → 0.99 → 0.98) and measure wall thickness to hit design dimensions.
- Use slower speeds (30-40 mm/s) and higher cooling for small features; increase speeds for large infill runs.
- Test annealing or epoxy coatings on sample parts before committing to functional pieces.
| Technique | Typical Settings / Impact |
| Temperature Tuning | PLA+: 200-220°C; Pro PLA: 210-235°C. Affects flow, bridging, and layer adhesion. |
| Retraction | Direct: 0.8-2.0 mm @ 25-40 mm/s. Bowden: 3-6 mm @ 40-70 mm/s. Minimizes stringing. |
| Pressure/Linear Advance | Klipper PA 0.05-0.15 or Marlin K 0.02-0.12. Reduces blobs and improves corner sharpness. |
| Cooling | Small layers: 80-100% fan. Large parts: 30-60% to improve interlayer bonding. |
| Annealing / Coating | Anneal 70-90°C for 30-60 min (slow cool) or apply epoxy (XTC-3D) for surface and strength gains. |
Using Supports and Rafts
You should choose support types based on geometry: use tree supports for delicate overhangs to minimize contact points and switch to grid/lines for heavy cantilevers that need a firmer base. Set support interface separation to 0.10-0.20 mm for easy removal on PLA+ and up to 0.25 mm for Pro PLA blends that bond more strongly to supports; higher interface gaps reduce marring but can compromise small overhang detail.
When bed adhesion is the problem, prefer a brim of 5-12 mm for small footprint parts rather than a full raft, since rafts add material and can damage the bottom surface during removal. If you must use a raft, print the first raft layer at 0.2-0.3 mm with a 0.2-0.3 mm separation from the part and use moderate first-layer extrusion (100-120%) to ensure consistent raft formation without excessive squish.
Post-Processing Methods
You can significantly improve appearance and strength with targeted post-processing: sand progressively from 200 to 800-1200 grit, then apply a thin layer of XTC-3D or brush-on epoxy to fill layer lines; this often increases perceived part rigidity and provides a paint-ready surface. For mechanical improvements, bonding layers with a thin CA glue or brush-on epoxy at seams can add shear strength where prints see load.
If heat treatment is in your plan, anneal small PLA+ samples at 70-90°C for 30-60 minutes followed by slow cooling inside the oven to raise crystallinity and improve dimensional stability and heat resistance; be aware that annealing frequently causes slight warping, so test fixturing is recommended. Avoid solvent smoothing with aggressive chemicals unless you’re equipped with proper ventilation and protective gear – many effective solvents are harmful and release VOCs.
Try a test matrix: sand + epoxy, anneal only, and sand + anneal, then measure flexural strength or heat deflection; many users observe a 15-30% improvement in functional interlayer strength with combined epoxy and annealing treatments on PLA+ samples, which helps you decide the best workflow for production parts.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with PLA+
Warping and Curling Problems
Set your heated bed to a steady 55-65°C for PLA+-many manufacturers recommend ~60°C-to keep the first layers bonded without overheating the part. Slow the first-layer speed to 20-30% of normal and expand the extrusion width to 120-150% for that layer; this increases contact area and adhesion. Use a 5-10 mm brim for large, flat parts and print with a PEI sheet or glass plus a thin layer of PVA-based glue stick to maximize stick. If you see edges lifting despite that, split the model into smaller sections or add fillets/chamfers to reduce internal stress concentration.
Eliminate drafts by using an enclosure or at least wind protection; even small air currents can cause uneven cooling and curl on thin features. Reduce part cooling fan speed to 0-30% for the first 2-5 layers, then ramp up gradually to the manufacturer’s recommended cooling-PLA+ often benefits from slightly less aggressive early cooling than standard PLA. Check your Z-offset carefully: too-low settings can gouge the bed and clog the nozzle, while too-high settings reduce adhesion and promote lift. If you suspect moisture-related warping on long prints, dry the spool at 40-50°C for 4-6 hours before printing.
Stringing and Blobbing Solutions
Stringing is usually a combination of too-high nozzle temperature and suboptimal retraction. Reduce nozzle temp in 5°C increments from your baseline (many PLA+ prints well at 205-225°C) while watching for layer adhesion problems. For retraction, use 0.5-2 mm at 25-40 mm/s on direct-drive setups and 4-7 mm at 30-45 mm/s on Bowden systems; enable minimum travel distance (1-3 mm) so micro-moves don’t trigger retraction. Turn on coasting or wipe in your slicer and increase travel speed (150-200 mm/s) to shorten open-air time and cut oozing. Avoid sustained temperatures above ~240°C, which can degrade PLA+, create bubbles, and dramatically increase stringing.
Check hardware: a partially clogged or worn nozzle causes pressure build-up and unpredictable blobs, and a chewed filament drive gear will skip instead of retracting properly. Run a temperature tower to find the lowest viable extrusion temperature, then print a retraction test tower to dial distance and speed. If you use a Bowden tube, ensure the PTFE liner is intact and seated; a degraded liner increases friction and forces you into larger retraction values that can grind filament, so replace it if retraction becomes noisy or inconsistent.
For practical starting points, on an Ender 3 (Bowden) try 210°C, 6 mm retraction at 45 mm/s, travel 180 mm/s, and coasting volume ~0.2 mm³; on a Prusa MK3S (direct) try 215°C, 0.8-1.0 mm at 35 mm/s with wipe enabled and minimum travel 1.5 mm. Tweak one variable at a time: temperature first, then retraction distance, then retraction speed, and finish with coasting/wipe settings in your slicer (Cura’s “Combing: Not in Skin” or PrusaSlicer’s negative extra restart distance are effective). Dry filament (45-55°C for 4-6 hours) if persistent micro-strings appear despite tuned settings.
Comparing Pro PLA with Standard PLA+
At-a-glance comparison
| Composition & focus | Pro PLA: engineered blends (PLA copolymers, impact modifiers, occasional mineral or PETG-based additives) to raise toughness and thermal performance.Standard PLA+: PLA with plasticizers or basic impact modifiers aimed at better layer bonding and surface finish while keeping printability high. |
| Mechanical performance | Pro PLA typically delivers higher tensile strength and elongation-tensile values commonly in the 60-75 MPa range and noticeably improved impact resistance.Standard PLA+ usually sits around 50-65 MPa with modest increases in toughness versus raw PLA. |
| Thermal resistance | Pro PLA designs often push glass transition/HDT toward 70-80°C, making them better for warm environments.Standard PLA+ remains near typical PLA Tg (~60-65°C). |
| Print settings & ease | Pro PLA commonly prints at 210-230°C with bed temps 50-70°C; requires tighter moisture control and sometimes slower cooling.Standard PLA+ prints easier at 200-220°C and is more forgiving for beginners. |
| Surface & post-processing | Pro PLA can sand, solvent-smooth (limited), and paint well; fillers enable better matte or uniform finishes.Standard PLA+ gives excellent glossy surfaces with easy sanding but lower heat-safe post-processing limits. |
| Typical cost | Pro PLA: usually $30-60/kg depending on formulation and brand.Standard PLA+: commonly $20-35/kg, making it cheaper for non-functional parts. |
Material Composition and Properties
When you inspect formulations, Pro PLA is often a purpose-built blend: manufacturers add copolymers, impact modifiers, or small amounts of high-temperature polymers to the PLA base to increase ductility and raise the usable temperature window. This means you’ll see higher elongation at break and fewer brittle failures on thin-walled or load-bearing prints; typical tensile strength gains are in the order of 10-25% compared with many PLA+ variants.
Because additives change crystallization behavior, you should expect altered print behavior: Pro PLA commonly benefits from slightly higher extrusion temperatures (+5-15°C) and reduced fan speeds to maximize layer adhesion, but that also raises the risk of stringing and requires tighter moisture control-moisture will amplify oozing and weaken layers, so drying spools before use can be the difference between success and reprints.
Cost vs. Performance Analysis
From a budget standpoint, you’ll pay a premium for Pro PLA-typically $10-30/kg more-but the performance payoff depends on part function. For functional prototypes or low-volume production where heat resistance, impact strength, or dimensional stability matter, Pro PLA can cut reprint rates and post-processing time; for example, switching to a Pro-grade filament for hinge assemblies has been shown in shop runs to reduce visible delamination from roughly 10-15% down to 2-4%, improving throughput despite higher material cost.
If your workflow is primarily aesthetic models, fit checks, or concept parts, Standard PLA+ usually delivers the best cost-to-convenience ratio: you keep print speeds high, fine detail remains excellent, and failures tied to thermal exposure are unlikely. Conversely, when parts must survive daily use, elevated temperatures, or light mechanical load, the extra spend on Pro PLA often pays back in reduced labor and fewer discarded prints.
When deciding, quantify your failure cost: estimate the time to reprint a failed part (machine hours + labor) and compare against the per-kilogram price delta; in many small-batch production scenarios, avoiding just a few reprints per 100 parts makes Pro PLA the economical choice despite the higher filament price.
Summing up
So you can get significantly stronger prints by choosing PLA+ or Pro PLA and tuning the stack: optimize nozzle temperature and cooling to balance layer adhesion and detail, increase extrusion width and appropriate layer height for structural layers, use higher infill percentage and load-bearing patterns, slow critical print speeds, and keep filament dry while maintaining precise calibration.
You should also apply part-oriented design and targeted post-processing-orient layers along load paths, add fillets and ribs, use annealing or surface treatments when suitable, and document settings through test prints-so your process becomes repeatable and yields consistently stronger, reliable parts.
